Great Stuff I Got From Dwarf Lab!

 Just wanted to share a pic of the great swag which Dwarf Lab sent me!

Introduction To Astronomy - Full Presentation - Both The Dwarf II And The Seestar S50 Covered!!

Featuring Full Reviews of Both The Dwarf II and Seestar S50

Smart Telescopes!

Review: The Dwarf 3 Smart Telescope

The Dwarf 3 Smart Telescope

“There are only two ways of looking at the world: one is as if everything is a miracle, the other is as though nothing is”

- Einstein 

I can say right from the beginning, that I am very grateful for the existence of The Dwarf 3; and for that matter, smart telescopes in general.

They truly are little miracles. 🔭 

Let’s start by having a look at how The Dwarf 3 arrived to me, here in New York.

I purchased the complete package, with optional Dwarf Tripod, directly from DwarfLabs.

Unpacking The Dwarf III

It is 222 x 142 x 65mm in size, and weighs only 2lbs 14Oz (1.3kg). The optional tripod adds 1lb 7Oz (0.65kg), while the carry case is 21Oz (0.6kg.). Making the full kit is very easy to carry and manage.

I would urge you to have a look at the neat comparison chart (Dwarf 3 vs Dwarf 2) which may be found by scrolling down on this DwarfLabs page It shows all the major features, side-by-side.

As ordered, with the optional tripod, the total cost to me (here in New York, USA) was $629 US Dollars. It's actually going for a little less at the time of this writing. As always, I would encourage the reader to shop around for the best price.

The major features include: 

A larger 35mm diameter apochromatic objective, along with a larger 3.4mm wide field lens. 

A longer 150mm focal length. 

A Sony IMX678 Starvis 2 imaging chip.

The overall exterior design may be described as a slightly larger version of The Dwarf 2. As with The Dwarf 2 (and every other smart telescope) it is controlled by your iOS smartphone, tablet, or Android device. The software is fast and free to download, and is also being improved from time to time. It's called The Dwarflab app. The controls are conveniently located on screen, and as of November 2025, include: General Mode, Deep Sky, Solar System, Auto-Capture, and Pano.

General Mode enables access to: Photo, Burst, Video and Time Lapse.

Just pulled indoors after an imaging session

I found it very easy to use, but requiring a bit of patience at times: The unit must calibrate itself for a couple of minutes, after locating an object. In my case, it's always DSO's!

The Dwarf 3 would be ideal for someone who would like the ability to get involved in their astrophotography. It is designed to allow the user (if willing) to:

• Select and stack their own sub frames (individual exposures) within the built-in Stellar Studio App.
• Export and stack the subframes in a (non-Dwarf) application of their choice (DeepSkyStacker, etc.).
• Tinker with the different exposure settings (when acquiring images).
• On board photo adjustments are also available while imaging DSO's, such as curves, etc. Although I found them to be too drastic/dramatic when I experimented with them. 

Just a quick shot of a section of Milky Way

(very little post processing applied)

It also features the ability to take very nice Milky Way shots. It is provided with appropriate solar filters for taking convenient images of the Sun. As well as daytime photos of wildlife, etc. I haven't used these features yet (DSO's are always on my mind!).

I will mention, that I've tracked down and imaged several planetary nebulae with it - and although it's not ideally suited for this, I was satisfied with the results on the (slightly larger, non-Messier) planetary nebulae. 

I found the overall accuracy of it's goto abilities to be satisfactory. The unit features overnight scheduling ability: 

For example: Program it to image Object A for 1 hour, Object B for 30 minutes, Object C for 2 hours, then shut down. Pretty neat!

Pros:

• Compact and easily portable.
• The user can choose to be involved in the astrophotography process, by utilizing Polar alignment and 3rd party stacking software.
• Good value for what you get: It's quite versatile.
• Everything is easy and fully automated.
• Includes Megastack - The ability to stack previously stacked results, into one combined final image.
• Proven to have excellent wireless range, and robust enough to be left out all night.

Cons:

• App has frozen on occasion.
• It does take a couple of minutes, from locating object (DSO) to commence shooting.
• My (low budget) iPhone SE displays warning messages about not having enough space - luckily, it still functions anyway. Users with newer/more capable phones and tablets will be fine.

In summary, there's no denying that this new Dwarf 3 produces! 

I've seen many outstanding imaging results, from users across the country (here in The US). Some users may choose to participate in the astrophotography workflow by performing polar alignment and using third-party stacking software - When coupled with good exposure times (~1-4 hours) the resulting DSO images have been stunning!

The Dwarf III has acquired the nicest looking result of M45 I've ever seen from any previous (affordable) smart telescope; and in only 6 Min. 15".

After acquiring your stacked image, you upload it to the Dwarf Labs' cloud (Stellar Studio), select what you'd like done (I always choose Auto), and in a few minutes, the image appears, fully enhanced!

I was just the slightest bit "skeptical" at first myself, but the results speak for themselves.

Here is an image of M16, with only Star Correction applied.

It's fun to have the different options to choose from when using the built-in Stellar Studio App! In my experience (of only a few months) I've always relied on Dwarf Labs' (built-in) Stellar Studio (cloud based) tool for final processing. I have been more than satisfied with the results. I believe it may have spoiled me! The results have been so good, that I don't even use any 3rd party stacking/processing app - However, I am definitely looking forward to trying some!

It's convenient to have the subframes available (located in the telescope itself). Since there are some images I'd really like to put some more effort into...

The Soul Nebula, in under 30 minutes!

If you'd also like to see just what The Dwarf III is capable of, have a look at the results obtained by Dwarf 3 owners in the Dwarf 3 online communities and groups (Facebook has several).

You will come across some amazing results from other amateurs. The hobbyists who have dedicated several hours of exposure time per object.

Polar aligning The Dwarf 3, opens up a world of possibilities resulting from longer sub-exposures.

I am planning on adding some more updates and details to this review, so check back from time to time…

Some Dwarf 3 owners are using serious tools like PixInsight; and utilizing various palettes, and have created stunning end results. In any case, The Dwarf 3 certainly deserves a closer look!

Clear skies!

Review Of The Dwarf II Smart Telescope Part 1 of 1

Here is my full Review of The Dwarf 2 smart telescope.

The Dwarf II is the smallest, lightest, and most portable of all the smart telescopes available today. It also happens to be the most budget-friendly! At it's current (on-sale) price of only $459 - It is the lowest-cost smart telescope currently available! It is basically a user-friendly, entry-level, introduction to astrophotography! One which the entire family may enjoy.

An interesting point to note: Is that The Dwarf 2, provides a user with an actual "taste" of real (conventional) astrophotography - but with the most annoying factors omitted! It's safe to say, that all of the other smart telescopes on the market don't. Rather, all of the others (many of which can get expensive!) are devoid of any bits of the astrophotography experience. In other words, all of the other auto-telescopes are completely automated. Removing the user from the experience (or process) altogether. This is a very interesting point to consider.

If you'd like to see a few pics from the day The Dwarf II arrived; and was unboxed, then have a look at this post.

The Dwarf II measures 204 x 62 x 130mm or 8 x 2.4 x 5.1 inches. And weighs only 1 kg or 2.4 Lbs.

It's main features are that it is:

• It's super small / compact
• Controlled by your smartphone (or tablet) / Android or iPhone based.
• Object GOTO ability / and Automatic star tracking
• Automatic stacking of your images from space.
• Ability to do daytime photography (and video), as well as panoramic images.
• Comes with rechargeable battery & 64GB MicroSD card.

I'll be covering these features in more detail, sometime later in this review. Additional technical specifications include:

• A formidable resolution of 8.46 Megapixels
• Pixel size of 1.45um
• A 24mm lens aperture, @F/4.2, 100mm refractor
• Utilizing a Sony IMX415 sensor chip

All things considered, it is fairly easy to use. The thing to keep in mind, is that The Dwarf 2 is not a fully-automated smart telescope. Again, it is designed to allow the user some involvement in the astrophotography process.

But, I can promise you, it isn't a lot! The learning curve is not steep at all. Typically, by the 2nd night out, you'll be well-versed in it's proper operation. By the 3rd or 4th night out, you'll be an expert!

This makes The Dwarf II ideal, for someone wanting to do some astrophotography of DSO's (Deep Sky Objects) without having to learn or study the subject.

Next, I'd like to draw your attention to the things which are required for normal astrophotography. The stuff one must do in the traditional hobby... 

Things like Polar alignment. Something which is a must, when doing conventional astrophotography. Many astrophotographers (myself included) are not fond of polar aligning a set-up. Depending on your equipment, it can be quite annoying. As evidenced by the existence of so many funny memes on the subject!

Things like:

• (1.) Polar alignment - Not needed, but optional with The Dwarf 2. If you chose to, it is easily done.
• (2.) Having to take Calibration frames: Darks, Biases, and Flats - Oh my!
• (3.) Monitoring of the progress.
• (4.) Having an autoguider to purchase, and then worry about.
• (5.) Having to wait until the next day (typically) to sort through, organize, and stack your frames.
• (6.) Stacking and post-processing "your data" - this necessitates being in front of a computer screen, for substantial lengths of time (always my least favourite part).

Below, I've provided detailed explanations of each component:

1. Polar alignment - Aligning your telescope's mount, to the star Polaris, "the North Star" in the Northern hemisphere. Or the Southern Celestial Pole / the 4 stars of The Southern Cross constellation; if you live in the Southern hemisphere.

2. Calibration frames - 

Darks: A series of (anywhere from 20 to 60) exposures taken for the same length of time as your Lights; with the lens cap on.

Biases: Similar to above, except using the fastest shutter speed your camera is capable of. 

Flats: Similar to taking Darks, except with a white T-shirt stretched over the front of the lens, while aiming at a uniform source of illumination. Such as a slightly overcast sky during the day.

3. Frequent checking, on how everything is going. More specifically, things like: Is the system still tracking properly? eg. Are the stars still round? or are they beginning to trail? If so, that's more frames for you to discard when you're going through them later... A moot point with The Dwarf II!

4. Autoguiders! An autoguider is a smaller telescope, equipped with it's own small (CMOS or CCD) camera - you center it on a star, and it communicates any tracking corrections needed to the main imaging system.

Well, as I have a habit of being honest to a fault: I will state, that I've been intrigued by autoguiders over the years. However...There are some things to consider: In order to use / take advantage of an autoguider, your set-up needs to be a certain level of capability. In other words, if you're not using an advanced tracking mount to begin with, an autoguider cannot be a consideration. Less expensive tracking mounts simply don't feature an autoguiding port.

If you do have a top-of-the-range tracking mount; then you can purchase a small guidescope and guide camera. Which will ensure that your tracking mount avoids tracking errors, etc.

Okay, all of that 🠉 doesn't exist with The Dwarf II.

5. Yep, all shots - Lights*, Darks, Biases, and Flats must each be placed in their own, dedicated file folders. Later, each folder must be specified (you must inform your software where each folder is). Or, things will not go well for you - LoL!

However, I'll state that it's inherent versatility, allows a user to get as involved as they please. Again, optional - as in, if a user is so inclined to. I'll touch on this a bit more below.

6. This is the part where your software has already stacked all of the (various types) of frames. This is when and where your post processing (of the final image) takes place. This was always one of my least favourite parts. It consists of sitting in front of your computer screen; and applying one minor adjustment after another to your final picture.

After one becomes competent (proficient) in this skill, they develop what is referred to as a workflow. Essentially, a series of steps of adjustments to your final image, which further enhances and sharpens your final result.

If someone were to ask me: Who is The Dwarf 2 good for? I would say (1st and foremost) it's well-suited for anyone wishing to try astrophotography. Virtually anyone from a (patient) teenager to a seasoned/experienced astronomer would likely enjoy this smart telescope. The only prerequisite being a desire to photograph objects in the night sky. 

It is especially well-suited for anyone who has tried some astrophotography in the past, but perhaps found a facet of it annoying, unpleasant, or tedious. Since what a smart telescope does, is effectively handle almost all of the boring stuff! Why do I use the term almost? because in the case of The Dwarf 2, some things are still possible (at the user's discretion).

The unique thing about The Dwarf 2, is that it doesn't do away with everything. It gives the user the optional opportunity to:

• Attach 3rd-party nebula filters, including experimenting with various narrowband filters (Ha, OIII, or SII).
• Attach it to a standard, adjustable photo tripod, to do a (simple) polar alignment. This will allow you to accomplish much, much longer imaging sessions, before the effects of field rotation become apparent. 
• Take their own (additional) calibration frames (Darks, Flats, & Biases) to manually stack in software later. Someone might do this, in an effort to "squeeze" every additional amount of image quality out of the unit's capability. Think of this as something an experienced astrophotographer would be apt to do.

For my part, I have purchased an excellent nebula filter...What I'm actually referring to is called a Duo Band filter. I bought it from High Point Scientific. 

Until next time,

Clear skies!

Book Review: Chris Woodhouse's "The Astrophotography Manual: A Practical and Scientific Approach to Deep Sky Imaging (3rd Edition)

This post will serve as a "placeholder" for what will eventually be the full/detailed review of the awesome new third edition of the book: 'The Astrophotography Manual' by Chris Woodhouse

"The Astrophotography Manual" by Chris Woodhouse is an indispensable guide for both novice and seasoned astrophotographers aiming to delve into deep sky imaging with a scientific approach. If you’re a fan of using CCD cameras for your astrophotography: Then you’ll love this book!

This comprehensive manual combines practical advice with theoretical insights, offering a thorough exploration of the techniques and equipment necessary to capture stunning images of celestial objects.

Woodhouse begins by laying a solid foundation in the fundamental concepts of astrophotography, making complex topics accessible even to beginners. He covers essential equipment such as telescopes, cameras, mounts, and accessories, providing detailed explanations on their selection and usage. The author's emphasis on understanding the underlying principles ensures readers grasp not just how to use equipment, but why certain choices are optimal for specific imaging goals.

One of the book's standout features is its integration of scientific principles into practical application. Woodhouse meticulously explains the physics of light, optics, and celestial mechanics relevant to astrophotography. This scientific approach enriches the reader's understanding, empowering them to make informed decisions in their imaging endeavors.

Practical techniques for image acquisition, processing, and enhancement are meticulously detailed throughout the book. From planning and executing imaging sessions to post-processing techniques using software like Photoshop and specialized astrophotography tools, Woodhouse covers each step with clarity and expertise. The inclusion of workflow examples and troubleshooting tips ensures that readers can navigate common challenges effectively.

Moreover, the book addresses advanced topics such as image calibration, stacking, and noise reduction techniques essential for achieving high-quality astrophotographic results. Woodhouse's guidance on achieving color balance, enhancing detail, and managing dynamic range enhances the reader's ability to produce professional-level astrophotographs. Awesome stuff!

Beyond technical instruction, "The Astrophotography Manual" inspires with its stunning imagery. Woodhouse includes breathtaking examples of deep sky objects captured by himself and other astrophotographers, showcasing the potential of modern equipment and techniques.

Chris Woodhouse's "The Astrophotography Manual" is a definitive resource for anyone passionate about deep sky imaging. Its blend of practical advice, scientific understanding, and inspirational content makes it a must-have for enthusiasts seeking to advance their skills and capture the wonders of the cosmos through photography.

Whether you're starting out or looking to refine your techniques, this book provides the knowledge and guidance needed to excel in the fascinating field of astrophotography.

Review: The AM3 Harmonic Drive Mount and TC40 Tripod from ZWO - Part 2 of 2

Review: The AM3 Harmonic Drive Mount and TC40 Tripod from ZWO - Part 2 of 2

Once you use a harmonic drive mount, such as The AM3: It would be very difficult to go back to any kind of normal (non-strain wave) mount!

The AM3 Harmonic Drive Mount from ZWO

The AM3 was just a pleasure to use; it’s the sort of situation where the equipment is  almost “out of the way”. It’s not a burden (like many other conventional mounts can be). It allows you to focus on other aspects of your astrophotography.

• Insure that the mount shows up in your list of Available Networks / Select it on your smartphone/or tablet (this also helps make faster connections in the future).
• Bring your mount/rig outside - Mine is always ready-to-go, with The AT80EDT refractor on it. I’m sure this is common practice (with small-medium sized refractors).
• Set-up rig: pointed North (polar alignment). Supply power/plug-in, power on.
• At this point, you should be able to launch The ZWO Mount software, and select an object to slew to. 

While we’re on the subject of polar alignment… Polar alignment with The AM3 harmonic drive mount is different than what you’re used to…

So, I might go as far as to say that: In the beginning, you might miss the original way of polar aligning (I did!).

When you’ve done something the same way for many, many years – it’s not easy to learn/get used to a new way of doing it. 

With The AM3 Mount:

• You make sure that your rig (mount & scope) are in the Home position - Not Park. *For those who aren’t aware, there’s a difference!
• Then, you point your scope to your respective polar alignment position. For those of us in The Northern hemisphere, that is the NCP / near Polaris (“the North Star).

*Home Position, is the position in which you would point/align your telescope to the North celestial pole (for those of us living in the northern hemisphere). The South celestial “pole” / area for those in the southern hemisphere, to put it in simple terms. 

The “Park” position, was/is designed for use in an observatory. Those operating inside any type of observatory, would utilize the Park position, to keep the telescope out of the way, when opening/closing the dome.

I know, pretty neat, right? 

Everything is, of course well-covered, and illustrated in the (freely downloadable) user manual. 

However, I will mention page 16 of the user manual; and draw your attention for a moment, to figure 3.4.1 entitled ‘How to adjust the latitude?’

Why this particular figure? Because the number 341 is some kind of lucky number for me, so there you go – maybe it’ll bring me some luck if I mention it in this review?

Some additional (selected) Specs:

• Uses Strain wave gear + Synchronous belt technology; with a reduction ratio of 300:1
• Typical periodic error of only +/- 15"
• Latitude adjustment range: 0 to 90°
• Maximum slew speed of 6° per second (pretty fast in use).
• Mount can operate down to -40° Celsius 

There are two gears, to adjust the latitude on The AM3 Mount. This is done using the included M6 Allen key – by loosening two hex screws (counter-clockwise).

Gear 1: goes from 0° to 60°. 

Gear 2 goes from 30° to 90°. Again, it is all well covered, and illustrated in the (downloadable) user manual.

Switching The AM3 Mount from Equatorial mode to Alt–Azimuth mode, is done via the hand controller. You press and hold the ‘C’ (cancel) button, while turning on The AM3 Mount’s power button. When you release the ‘C’ / cancel button, the status indicator light turns to green, from red.

...Currently “migrated” to DSLR-based AP

Upon deployment, on subsequent nights, you’ll most likely just need to make a mild adjustment (to get accurate polar alignment).
Luckily, the overall accuracy of the mount helps matters.

Pros:

• Lightweight, easy to move around/re-position.
• Able to hold large telescopes, without much concern about balance/balancing, etc.
• Robust, accurate, and fairly quiet.
• Ability to function in equatorial, as well as Alt/Azimuth mode!
• Boasts many features, including: WiFi, Bluetooth, and (wired) hand controller.
• Operates seamlessly with just about all astrophotography software out there.

Cons:

• Relatively expensive, compared to several (conventional) mounts out there.
• The TC40 Tripod (which suits it best) may be considered a little expensive (although it can be found for as low as $349 at Astronomics).
• Polar aligning will take some getting used to…

During my test period: I have used The AM3 Harmonic drive Mount in a number of different ways:

• The conventional way: Using more than one model of refractor telescope for astrophotography (as seen in photos above).
• Using both dedicated Astro camera (CMOS) and DSLRs.
• With just a DSLR and telephoto lens.
• As an Alt/Azimuth Mode mount: For both telescope, and binocular visual observing!

Just to give you an idea.

These are very low cost Barska brand binoculars (15x70)

I hope to get a chance, to try a nice sized binocular telescope on this mount – personally, I think it would be a lot of fun!

I also enjoyed attaching my Canon DSLR and lens directly to this AM3 Mount, with great results (still post processing)…

The AM3 is obviously a versatile tracking mount, for more than just astrophotography - Although admittedly, I’m probably one of the few people who’ve actually used it for visual observing! Yes, it may seem a bit odd…but it is nice to know it can do it.

Aside from doing your polar alignment in a new, different way…The only obvious, and real “obstacle” I can see, is the slightly higher cost.

There are many astrophotographers, trying to accomplish some good astrophotography, while staying within a reasonable budget. For folks like us, the expense poses a bit of an obstacle. 

However, I could not see anyone spending the same amount of money on a non-strain wave mount.

As for a few specific examples, take the top end mounts from Sky-Watcher…

Equatorial, GoTo mounts, such as:

The HEQ5

The EQ6-R Pro

The AZ-EQ6 Pro 

The bottom line, is that The ZWO AM3 Harmonic drive equatorial mount can be found for as low as $1499 US dollars at Astronomics.

So - this would be my recommendation (which, for many, will seem like a “no-brainer”) - if the Go To mount which you are considering, costs as much as (or more than) The ZWO AM3, I would advise you to go for The AM3. 

However, let’s not forget the tripod. If you don’t have a suitable/sturdy enough tripod - you’re obviously going to need one. 

You may find yourself leaning towards getting the TC40 Tripod from ZWO – because, of course, it fits the AM3 mount like a glove. They were basically made for each other. So you must take into account the expense of ZWO TC40 tripod, when considering the total cost of your mount.

In the spirit of not overlooking anything or leaving anything out: I’d like to mention, that for those who don’t mind spending a bit of money on an extra gadget - which will make your life easier - I would like mention The PoleMaster made by QHY. You can read about it, and see about ordering one, by visiting Explore Scientific (for starters).

The PoleMaster is a fascinating little gadget, which mounts onto the front of your telescope mount, and allows you to accurately (and easily) polar align. I have not used one myself, but it seems to be an ideal addition to an AM3 Mount.

I will add any additional items of interest to this review, as needed.

A huge thank you, to ZWO for the loan of the equipment for this review!

Next up, will be a review of The Astrophotography Manual A Practical and Scientific Approach to Deep Sky Imaging by Chris Woodhouse. This is the very latest, second edition. I can tell you right now, if you enjoy using dedicated Astro cams (CMOS) for your Astrophotography – then you simply must get this book ASAP!

Until next time,

Clear skies!

Review: The AM3 Harmonic Drive Mount and TC40 Tripod from ZWO - Part 1 of 2

Review: The AM3 Harmonic Drive Mount and TC40 Tripod from ZWO - Part 1 of 2

The AM3 Harmonic Drive Mount from ZWO is a Strain Wave drive telescope mount.

Photo credit ZWO / Stock photo.

If you haven't seen it already, you should have a look at my 'Arrival and First Impressions' post.

Additional benefits of The Strain Wave Drive technology:

• You no longer need to even balance your telescope! This is great!
• There aren't any clutches to tighten or loosen, lock or unlock, etc.
• It is accurate! Strain Wave mounts experience very little periodic error (ZWO guarantees less than +/- 20 arcseconds (this is low enough to have no noticeable effect on your imaging).
• It may function in both Equatorial and Alt/Azimuth mode. 
• In addition, each AM3 and AM5 comes with a certificate, stating the (individual) mount's amount of periodic error - Awesome.

Unboxed and set-up - On The TC40 carbon fiber tripod by ZWO:

The AM3 comes provided with a sturdy, styrofoam-like box (similar to what The Seestar S50 comes with). Also included in the box:

• The AM3 Mount
• A 2-meter long, angled, gold-plated USB cable.
• The unique PEC test report.
• A Quick Start Guide (Instruction Manual).
• The Hand Controller & Hand Controller cable (coiled, 2 meters long).
• 2 appropriately sized allen key wrenches (M6, and M4, for mount adjustments).

The AM3 can carry 17.5 lbs of equipment without a counterweight. If and when the need for heavier rigs comes up - Installing the optional counterweight bar & counterweight, allows The AM3 to hold 28.5 lbs of equipment!

All from a small, lightweight mount, which itself weighs only 17.5 lbs!

It features:

• A strong load capacity of: 8kg- Without a counterweight - and 13kg with a counterweight installed.
• It can function as an equatorial mount -Or- As an Alt-Azimuth mount!
• It uses Strain Wave gear technology along with a synchronous belt system.
• The AM3 (and AM5) utilize a compact and lightweight design.
• The mount is provided with a hand controller, as well as WiFi, Bluetooth, and built-in Live Star Database.
• It is ASCOM compatible (of course), and may be recognized as a (Meade) LX200 (by older software systems).

Following up on this last bullet point: I have tested The AM3 mount with a plethora of currently available software - And I have yet to find a software application which doesn't instantly recognize, and work with it!

At the most basic level, The AM3/AM5 mounts may be controlled by the ASI Mount App (both iOS & Android) freely provided by ZWO. I like the fact that firmware updates are automatically prompted.

At first, I found it quite amazing, that such an advanced piece of equipment could be easily controlled via a smartphone.

Sharing some screenshots from the easy set-up process

beginning with the installation of standard ASCOM software/drivers:

Where you get the ASCOM software

Selecting/Installing (defaults) ASCOM software

When ASCOM Platform has been installed successfully, you'll see this:

The AM3 mount has a dual saddle; which means it can hold either a:

Vixen / V-Style -or- a Losmandy / D-style dovetail.

While testing the mount, I also checked out how it would work for visual astronomy. I first tried the mount in Equatorial mode. It took a little getting used to: remembering the directions in which the scope moves, in relation to the movement of the joystick. 

Afterwards, I switched it to Altitude/Azimuth mode, and it worked much better! Much easier to get comfortable with it's movements. This mount can serve many functions. The indicator on the mount lights-up green to indicated Alt/Az Mode (Red for Eq Mode).

Initializing Auto/Online Update for the AM3 Mount:

The AM3 Mount is automatically updating itself - Very convenient!

I was running N.I.N.A. at the time...

The AM3 Mount successfully updated it's firmware - Neat!

Yes - That's N.I.N.A.

The AM3 Harmonic Drive Mount may be ordered directly from The ZWO Site. 

If you live in The US, Astronomics carries the full line of ZWO Mounts and accessories. 

Additional features include:

• LED status indicator (bi-color) to inform you of the Mount's current role (Eq. or AltAz.), as well as any error conditions. As does the lighted Power-on button.
• USB port - A USB 2.0 port - For connecting to an ASIAIR, etc.
• Auto Guide port / Guiding port (ST4 cable).
• Hand controller port - This features a rocker-style joystick, which may be moved 8 directions.
• 12v DC power supply port.

Please note: The mount isn't provided with a power supply/plug. You can order the ZWO 12V 5A AC to DC Adapter, at time of purchase. ZWO manufactures Pier Extensions to be used by folks with much larger refractor telescopes. ZWO makes both 160mm (6.3") -and- 200mm (7.9") Extension Piers as available options for The AM5.

And, of course, the ZWO TC40 Tripod is perfectly matched to the AM3/AM5 Mounts.

At this point, I would urge you to visit ZWO's Page on The AM3 Mount, to see all of the technical features and specifications. There is even a Special WO RedCat Edition of the mount - A result of a joint project with Williams Optics - (another outstanding manufacturer of astronomy equipment). It's a Limited Edition, with only 35 units being made!

The AM3/AM5 mounts are very unique! They definitely take a bit of getting used to - The AM3 is unlike any telescope mount I've ever used. One of the main things you'll notice right away, is how easy it is to use. Once you begin using one of these mounts, it will be near impossible to want to use any other kind. Now, you'll have all this extra time available - from not having to adjust, and re-adjust the settings you would on a typical EQ mount.

All ready to go!

I've used The AM3 with all of the popular AP equipment control applications out there today. Including: N.I.N.A., APT, PHD2, etc.

As well as planetarium software, such as: Cartes du Ciel, Sky Safari Pro, and more! And it just always works! 

In addition to the TC40 carbon fiber tripod, which Astronomics happens to have a great price on; there are several additional accessories available - Which include:

ZWO Counterweight Bar, and ZWO Pier Extension for The AM5.

Note: I am not affiliate with Astronomics either, I just noticed that they offered ZWO products at good prices.

All ASCOM Components updated:

The AM3 (and AM5) Harmonic Drive Mounts from ZWO, are the kind of mount one would buy, when you simply want your equipment to work - and work well. If you are tired of mucking about with the "conventional" types of equatorial mounts: Loosening, and tightening clutches, spending time balancing everything (esp. if changing telescopes), having to carry/move an awkwardly shaped (and heavy) mount around - Then you should be looking into an AM3 mount.

And yes, you will pay a bit more for an AM3 Mount...But a Chinese adage comes to mind: "Cheap things are not good, good things are not cheap"

Stay tuned for Part 2 of 2 of The AM3 Mount review coming up...

Thanks again, and Clear skies!

Honest and Unbiased Reviews of Astrophotography Equipment Part 2

The point I'd like to make is: It might seem like there's a bit of a shortage, of honest, and unbiased reviews of astrophotography equipment. It's a shame, really. Sometimes, it's blatantly obvious which reviewers are "in the pocket" of some manufacturers. 

And before you jump to the conclusion, that I'm about to "paint myself" as the only one prepared to be honest about products - I'll point out 4 reviewers - Which I can think of off the top of my head (so far) who are honest & unbiased in their Astro product reviews:

Cuiv The Lazy Geek 

Nico Carver at Nebula Photos

Astrobiscuit

ScottCAstroPhotography

Now, there are some other excellent ones out there, it's just that these are four which immediately came to my mind. Those which I'm confident about…and I enjoy watching their videos as well!

It's important to have at least some YouTuber's you can trust, for finding out the real deal about astronomy products.

You owe it to yourself to check-out, and subscribe to these guy's YouTube channels. You'll be glad you did! I watch them all the time. They're the real deal.

Astrobiscuit - Arguably, the most entertaining and informative/inspirational AP YouTube Channel out there. So good, you may find yourself coming back to watch some videos again and again! (I do!). In a word? Comprehensive.

Astrobackyard - Trevor Jones - Down-to-earth, easy-to-understand, useful Info on AP. Excellent for beginners. Information you can put to use immediately. Very useful recommendations & demonstrations.

Nebulaphotos - Nico Carver - Articulate, yet easy-to-understand, solid advice on AP for Beginners and beyond. Performs the most comprehensive tests/comparisons of hardware & software you've seen. As an example:

...Did he really test & compare every DSLR mod? Yes, yes he did!

Cuiv The Lazy Geek - This fellow...He gets his hands on ALL the latest equipment! Want to know what the hottest new AP gadget is? Cuiv will already have it, and be testing it! I've found out about all the latest AP gadgets by following his channel. I watch all the time!

       

ScottCAstroPhotography - If you’re a younger Astrophotographer, then Scott is the guy you’ll be able to relate to very easily. Not exclusively or otherwise limited to younger folks only! Younger generation Astrophotographers seem to go about their approach to AP in a slightly different way. They seem to want to get from point A to point B in the fastest way possible. Check out his channel and make up your own mind.

I do not plan on working on, or having a (successful) Astro YouTube channel. Creating excellent channels (like those) requires unfathomable amounts of work and effort. With my medical conditions, I wouldn't be able to, so I'm just an avid viewer. 

Writing reviews and blog posts, I can handle! 😀

And let’s not forget the books! When I’m not trying to capture images, organizing, stacking, or post processing (my attempts at) images of DSO‘s - I’m usually reading a book on astronomers of the 19th century. 

If you think you’d enjoy reading about these folks, then stay tuned: 

I’ll be sharing the titles of the books I would highly recommend, in an upcoming post.

However, I promise the next post you see here will be a thorough, and detailed review of the AM3 Harmonic Drive Mount from ZWO (my local weather has not been cooperating at all).

And finally, don't forget this brand-new book! It has just been made available for purchase a week ago! If you are one of those folks who have come to the conclusion, that dedicated CMOS AP cameras are the way to go - then you will especially love this book! It touches on many of the (scientific) reasons, why cooled CMOS cameras are superior for AP...

Full, detailed, book review is in progress; but again up next, is Part 1 of 2, of The AM3 Harmonic Drive Mount from ZWO.

Until next time,

Clear skies!

Honest and Unbiased Reviews of Astrophotography Equipment Part 1

First, Smart Telescopes - My thoughts and experiences: Simple, not-too-technical explanations, of the (affordable) Smart Telescopes: The Dwarf 2 and The Seestar S50. I've been using The Seestar S50 a lot more lately.

Have you taken a good look at some of the images captured with the Seestar S50 lately? You can always go to the Seestar S50 Official Group on Facebook, and just have a look. What you see, generally, are average people acquiring some phenomenal photos of deep sky objects - using just a Seestar S50. 

Of course, there are some “outliers” who put in some extra effort, and a lot of extra time – and achieve really remarkable results. Probably the most amazing part of it, and this is coming from a bona fide astrophotographer, is that when compared to images acquired using conventional rigs: the results from the Seestar S50 are commonly as good, and often better, than those acquired while spending a lot more money (and time). 

I have spent a lot of my free time recently, simultaneously, adding components to the conventional astrophotography rig I have; testing it, etc. 

I've also been researching all of the different results which other hobbyists have been getting, using different combinations of equipment. Astrobin.com is a great resource, For doing some quick and easy searches – to see images acquired with specific equipment. 

Of course, I’ve been looking up equipment similar to the rig I currently have, as well as possible combinations of scopes and cameras, which I’ve considered upgrading to.

There are almost a dozen different scope / camera combinations I've considered: From Newtonian astrographs, to 6" SCTs, even considered the "exotic" (lol) Ritchey Chretien!  

And many cameras, from DSLRs to CMOS... And I could hardly find any (modestly-priced) combination, which would produce substantially better results than my Seestar S50. 

The only (affordable) scope I came across, which would show a noticeable improvement in overall image(s) were the popular 6" F/4 Newtonian astrographs (like this one - for one example). Or this one, which is at least in stock.

This is my current set up: 

How it started...

How it progressed...

How it ended up...

(still in progress)

• A ZWO AM3 Harmonic Drive Mount, on a ZWO TC40 tripod (this is currently on loan from ZWO).
• An Astro Tech AT80EDT (apochromatic triplet refractor).
• A 2” Astro Tech field flattener.
• A (soon-to-be-modified) Canon 550 / T2i / DSLR.
• A ZWO 30mm Guidescope 
• A ZWO ASI120MM Guide camera

Software, which is being tested extensively is:

• ZWO’s suite of standard ASI applications.
• N.I.N.A.
• PHD2
• APT - Astro Photography Tool
• SharpCap 
• Astroberry

These are all very good, but for now the ones I’ve settled on are:

APT

 &

SharpCap 

I like using APT because it gives you real time feedback on everything that’s taking place: There’s live view, you can look at your actual sub frames, you can see the battery status of connected equipment, etc. 

I just find it all intuitive and very easy to use. I may also be a bit biased, because it’s the software I’ve used in years past.

I purchased a license for Sharpcap software; I’m looking forward to trying it’s live stacking feature.

Among the DSLR combinations I was looking into, were the following: 

Canon 550D + 80/90/102mm refractors 

Canon 5D Mk II (inspired by Astrobiscuit!)

Canon 60Da (inspired by Trevor Jones – Astrobackyard)

Nikon D5300 (inspired by Nico Carver – Nebulaphotos)

       &

Canon SL2

Canon T7i

       &

Nikon D5600 (inspired by Jerry Lodriguss – Astropix).

Other cameras by Canon which I’ve been looking into:

6D MkI

6D Mk II (full frame sensor)

5D MII

5D Mk III

450D (because of how inexpensive and versatile it is).

Other cameras by Nikon which I’ve been looking into:

D7500

D5500

D850

D810A (full frame sensor)

D600 (full frame sensor)

D700 (full frame sensor)

Until next time,

Clear skies!