Review Of The Dwarf II Smart Telescope Part 1 of 1

Here is my full Review of The Dwarf 2 smart telescope.

The Dwarf II is the smallest, lightest, and most portable of all the smart telescopes available today. It also happens to be the most budget-friendly! At it's current (on-sale) price of only $459 - It is the lowest-cost smart telescope currently available! It is basically a user-friendly, entry-level, introduction to astrophotography! One which the entire family may enjoy.

An interesting point to note: Is that The Dwarf 2, provides a user with an actual "taste" of real (conventional) astrophotography - but with the most annoying factors omitted! It's safe to say, that all of the other smart telescopes on the market don't. Rather, all of the others (many of which can get expensive!) are devoid of any bits of the astrophotography experience. In other words, all of the other auto-telescopes are completely automated. Removing the user from the experience (or process) altogether. This is a very interesting point to consider.

If you'd like to see a few pics from the day The Dwarf II arrived; and was unboxed, then have a look at this post.

The Dwarf II measures 204 x 62 x 130mm or 8 x 2.4 x 5.1 inches. And weighs only 1 kg or 2.4 Lbs.

It's main features are that it is:

• It's super small / compact
• Controlled by your smartphone (or tablet) / Android or iPhone based.
• Object GOTO ability / and Automatic star tracking
• Automatic stacking of your images from space.
• Ability to do daytime photography (and video), as well as panoramic images.
• Comes with rechargeable battery & 64GB MicroSD card.

I'll be covering these features in more detail, sometime later in this review. Additional technical specifications include:

• A formidable resolution of 8.46 Megapixels
• Pixel size of 1.45um
• A 24mm lens aperture, @F/4.2, 100mm refractor
• Utilizing a Sony IMX415 sensor chip

All things considered, it is fairly easy to use. The thing to keep in mind, is that The Dwarf 2 is not a fully-automated smart telescope. Again, it is designed to allow the user some involvement in the astrophotography process.

But, I can promise you, it isn't a lot! The learning curve is not steep at all. Typically, by the 2nd night out, you'll be well-versed in it's proper operation. By the 3rd or 4th night out, you'll be an expert!

This makes The Dwarf II ideal, for someone wanting to do some astrophotography of DSO's (Deep Sky Objects) without having to learn or study the subject.

Next, I'd like to draw your attention to the things which are required for normal astrophotography. The stuff one must do in the traditional hobby... 

Things like Polar alignment. Something which is a must, when doing conventional astrophotography. Many astrophotographers (myself included) are not fond of polar aligning a set-up. Depending on your equipment, it can be quite annoying. As evidenced by the existence of so many funny memes on the subject!

Things like:

• (1.) Polar alignment - Not needed, but optional with The Dwarf 2. If you chose to, it is easily done.
• (2.) Having to take Calibration frames: Darks, Biases, and Flats - Oh my!
• (3.) Monitoring of the progress.
• (4.) Having an autoguider to purchase, and then worry about.
• (5.) Having to wait until the next day (typically) to sort through, organize, and stack your frames.
• (6.) Stacking and post-processing "your data" - this necessitates being in front of a computer screen, for substantial lengths of time (always my least favourite part).

Below, I've provided detailed explanations of each component:

1. Polar alignment - Aligning your telescope's mount, to the star Polaris, "the North Star" in the Northern hemisphere. Or the Southern Celestial Pole / the 4 stars of The Southern Cross constellation; if you live in the Southern hemisphere.

2. Calibration frames - 

Darks: A series of (anywhere from 20 to 60) exposures taken for the same length of time as your Lights; with the lens cap on.

Biases: Similar to above, except using the fastest shutter speed your camera is capable of. 

Flats: Similar to taking Darks, except with a white T-shirt stretched over the front of the lens, while aiming at a uniform source of illumination. Such as a slightly overcast sky during the day.

3. Frequent checking, on how everything is going. More specifically, things like: Is the system still tracking properly? eg. Are the stars still round? or are they beginning to trail? If so, that's more frames for you to discard when you're going through them later... A moot point with The Dwarf II!

4. Autoguiders! An autoguider is a smaller telescope, equipped with it's own small (CMOS or CCD) camera - you center it on a star, and it communicates any tracking corrections needed to the main imaging system.

Well, as I have a habit of being honest to a fault: I will state, that I've been intrigued by autoguiders over the years. However...There are some things to consider: In order to use / take advantage of an autoguider, your set-up needs to be a certain level of capability. In other words, if you're not using an advanced tracking mount to begin with, an autoguider cannot be a consideration. Less expensive tracking mounts simply don't feature an autoguiding port.

If you do have a top-of-the-range tracking mount; then you can purchase a small guidescope and guide camera. Which will ensure that your tracking mount avoids tracking errors, etc.

Okay, all of that 🠉 doesn't exist with The Dwarf II.

5. Yep, all shots - Lights*, Darks, Biases, and Flats must each be placed in their own, dedicated file folders. Later, each folder must be specified (you must inform your software where each folder is). Or, things will not go well for you - LoL!

However, I'll state that it's inherent versatility, allows a user to get as involved as they please. Again, optional - as in, if a user is so inclined to. I'll touch on this a bit more below.

6. This is the part where your software has already stacked all of the (various types) of frames. This is when and where your post processing (of the final image) takes place. This was always one of my least favourite parts. It consists of sitting in front of your computer screen; and applying one minor adjustment after another to your final picture.

After one becomes competent (proficient) in this skill, they develop what is referred to as a workflow. Essentially, a series of steps of adjustments to your final image, which further enhances and sharpens your final result.

If someone were to ask me: Who is The Dwarf 2 good for? I would say (1st and foremost) it's well-suited for anyone wishing to try astrophotography. Virtually anyone from a (patient) teenager to a seasoned/experienced astronomer would likely enjoy this smart telescope. The only prerequisite being a desire to photograph objects in the night sky. 

It is especially well-suited for anyone who has tried some astrophotography in the past, but perhaps found a facet of it annoying, unpleasant, or tedious. Since what a smart telescope does, is effectively handle almost all of the boring stuff! Why do I use the term almost? because in the case of The Dwarf 2, some things are still possible (at the user's discretion).

The unique thing about The Dwarf 2, is that it doesn't do away with everything. It gives the user the optional opportunity to:

• Attach 3rd-party nebula filters, including experimenting with various narrowband filters (Ha, OIII, or SII).
• Attach it to a standard, adjustable photo tripod, to do a (simple) polar alignment. This will allow you to accomplish much, much longer imaging sessions, before the effects of field rotation become apparent. 
• Take their own (additional) calibration frames (Darks, Flats, & Biases) to manually stack in software later. Someone might do this, in an effort to "squeeze" every additional amount of image quality out of the unit's capability. Think of this as something an experienced astrophotographer would be apt to do.

For my part, I have purchased an excellent nebula filter...What I'm actually referring to is called a Duo Band filter. I bought it from High Point Scientific. 

Until next time,

Clear skies!